"Here’s the rub: in life, the time span "between waves" is far longer than in surfing. It’s a lot harder to shake off a year of wasted effort than two minutes of paddling. But I don’t think this is the major obstacle.
The biggest challenge is that most people set goals that are too modest to excite them. They aren’t willing to immediately try again because they don’t crave victory as much as surfers crave the next ride.”